I may have eaten the food of the future. It cost $ 270 and I was hungry.

In the first half of the 20th century, Metropolitan Life Insurance Company built two skyscrapers from Madison Square Park in Manhattan. One of them is home to eleven Madison Park, now considered one of the best restaurants in the United States, and has expressed an interest in doing something about climate change. The other tower, now a luxury hotel, is the home of science fiction author Kim Stanley Robinson 2017 novel. New York 2140Occurs after severe climate change.

Eleven Madison Park is not in the world. New York 2140With the melting of polar ice caps, the global sea level rose to 50 feet. Manhattan, south of Central Park, is now under water; The lower floors of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company towers are strong enough to keep the water out, and the upper floors have been transformed into small efficient apartments for professionals in good condition – lawyers, investment banks, influencers.

Where the tower New York 2140 It is also a farm. Upstairs there is an open-walled farm, with tomatoes, pumpkins and hydroponic greens for the Union-Op No-Free Cafeteria. Pigs live on farmland, and it is up to each common resident to raise and kill their own meat. Salmon, trout, catfish, and clams are also a major source of protein in aquifers, formerly known as Madison Square Park. Robinson’s future residents of New York know how to cope with climate change and how to eat, albeit relatively. Anyway, at least I didn’t go down without explaining myself first.

Nowadays, Daniel Ham, owner and CEO of Eleven Madison Park, is rethinking the restaurant’s legacy. Earlier this year, Ham began to present a unique vision of how New York residents can change their diet during climate change.

Hume made headlines around the world in May when the multi-star-studded restaurant Michael announced that it would eliminate meat, fish, dairy products and eggs in the name of sustainability. Ham told the New York Times: “It was very clear to me that our sense of luxury had to change. “We could not go back to doing what we did before.” At the United Nations Conference on Climate Change in Scotland, Hume endorsed his new role as Clarity on Sustainable Luxury.

After Humm announced the change, I was immediately vaccinated by YOLO and started trying to book a place at Eleven Madison Park. As a long-time vegan eater who is mostly vegan at home, I was curious that the menu changes would be a big part of the vegetarian diet. Eleven Madison Park – “Basic Educational Institution” Like American Restaurant Ruth Reich – Can Other Good Restaurants Inspire Them To Heat The Planet? Will those changes go down to more affordable restaurants, making a real difference in American sustainable food consumption and turning the tide of current congestion into a future?

At the end of September, a few days later New York Times I cleverly published a tedious review of Eleven Madison Park, and finally closed it for me and my mom, a vegan restaurant. Eleven Madison Park makes you pay in advance, and two courses for two people run for $ 540 before tax, including wine mixing and service. (Although I booked the book with the intention of paying out of my own pocket, Grist finally paid me half the price for the meal, and I in turn paid half for my mother.)

Two hundred and seventy dollars per person represents one of the most affordable options at Eleven Madison Park, with a bar tasting menu and regular wine. The 10 course course tasting menu costs $ 335 per person before the meal, and $ 175 to $ 335 for wine, so look for it as a standard or “captured” wine. I took some comfort in the claim that Eleven Madison Park provided five free meals for New York residents who did not have food for every dinner purchased at the restaurant.

On the night of our arrest, our senior minister told us three things after we sat under the attic of a star-studded night sky panorama. The first eleven Madison Park menu was not strictly vegan – the restaurant still offers milk and honey along with its coffee and tea service. “And this chair is leather,” said the waitress. He seems to be about Greta Thunberg’s age, she refuses as a mediator, but she is all equal in nature.

The second is a brief history of the building, which was started by the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company in 1929 with the intention of making it taller than the Empire State Building. The Great Depression threw the key in those plans, and as a result, he said, the building had elevator shafts above the floor. (Talk about closed property!)

A third pair of wines is about one ounce[1 L]of wine per person.

The menu changes from season to season, and each course reinforces my sense of belonging. Hate Focus on balanced experience by trying to pass through the autumn CSA box before all vegetables begin to rot.

The first meal was a small bowl of rice porridge with a mixture of mushrooms, a couple of tofu skins and a pinch of mushutake mushroom oil. According to the waiter who served the bowls, each rice bowl was polished to order. (This was the beginning of a procession of delicate, detailed servers. bon mots And interesting facts about ingredients and wine pairs.)

While I was drinking the wine paired with the first course, I enjoyed the wonderful Creme de Burgundy, the bar explored the area, my partners, bankers and technologists and innovators, some with their natural habitat and others. The men wore dresses or zippers; The women wore well-tailored jackets. On one occasion, a group of four handsome, wealthy, bourgeoisie infiltrated the bar area, and I was shocked to find that they had given me orders. They ordered a drink at a bar and were taken to a lofty dining room.

The second course is a shredded and fried golden beets salad with jicama and grapes, with Riesling. The salad served was, strangely, more oyster, this time just a little jolt – shredded beets were directly salty. The third course consisted of caviar, made from almonds and pureed pumpkin, which exploded from my mouth and was happily sliced. It would have been wonderful if he hadn’t hit the same two notes on the heels of two courses – transcendent, even.

The fourth course “several kohlrabi preparations” came with two sesame tofu – a soft, subtle sweet dish. But when I finished my combination of Chedraline and Tofu, they came into a very salty Dashi pool.

At this point, I had to worry, and not only for the long-term safety of the salt receiver for my tongue. The signs were seeing in my face that six courses would not be enough food to keep an adult for one night. The most important things I have put in my mouth so far are a few tablespoons of rice, almond cream and sesame tofu, and one and a half crunch-like rolls of satisfying butter made from sunflower seeds. (Silently clean half of the package before finishing a business-like reserve staff member.)

Still, it was me. no I do not I was worried because I was drinking four glasses of wine on an empty stomach. (The wine was reaching other people around the bar. Someone left his chair and sat down with a booth across the table. – Warm jazz music played perfectly to allow the conversation, dim light to flat – I felt deep.

And when the last delicious course arrived – a little deep roasted cabbage leaves filled with a few pistachios – it was not recorded as a metabolic risk. I was very helpful in overcoming the problem by eating five small courses made entirely of vegetables – and I was relieved to learn that cabbage food was a salty, fragrant, and refreshing breeze from previous courses. Uniform. The sweet courses – a little grapefruit next to a small coconut bite and a sesame-flavored chocolate in the shape of a prism, each with their own drink – further exacerbated the imbalance between alcohol and food.

Kim Stanley Robinson, the forerunner of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, asserted that humans need protein to survive in the foreheads of the rich. It does not seem that the same thing happened with Daniel Hum. At Eleven Madison Park, my food had “luxury” traps. The bar ended with a gift bag filled with granola and homemade Vermawus, and the bartender said he had no policy advice because the restaurant was “based on hospitality.” But no matter how hospitable, no matter how talented, macro-energy can not be replaced. When I got off the train, I found my local pizza parlor closed and I spent the night waiting for a few field fried vegan breakfast plates, which unfortunately did not provide enough food to prevent a debilitating hangover the next day.

When I woke up with a severe headache, I found myself wondering if I really understood what the Eleven Madison Park Bar tasting menu should be. Is it intended as a two-hour, six-course, $ 270 snack? Should I schedule a time to get a mushroom burger filled with Shakespeare cheese at Madison Square Park? I wanted to ask Humm, but he rejected the public interview, and he did not respond to my email. Humm asked what he thought about the role of protein in the plant-based menu.

Spencer Platt / Getty Images

“How do you get enough protein?” Every vegan raises a question. The answer is a resounding no! Beans, lentils, almonds, tofu, thyme and satan are all wonderful sources of plant-based protein. Instead of meat, milk, and eggs, they may be whipped or spiced or allowed to lighten on their own. I hope Ham will add more to the menu if eleven Madison Park vegan cuisine goes downhill.

Widespread vegetation in the United States comes in one form or another – by choice, increasing severe drought and flooding make it very expensive for many people to buy meat, or later. Hum is clearly shooting for Westerners to make the transition without delay A few weeks after eating at eleven Madison Park, Ham parted ways with a vegan view of the restaurant at the London Clarge Hotel. “If you change the restaurant vegan, you will upset thousands of regular guests,” Clarge’s insider told the Daily Mail. “My future depends on plants,” Hume replied on Instagram. Ham is clearly right about his benefits. But after eating Humm’s unique way of cooking vegetarian food in Eleven Madison Park, I wondered if Clarridge’s main concern was that the guests would not go angry but go hungry.

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